Surfing through the Waves

IMG_20150313_111402_018 IMG_20150312_183627_229 IMG_20150313_104254_652 IMG_20150313_123422_616I really hadnt thought to much about what adventures were coming my way, the people I was going to meet, or things I was going to see.  I was pretty open to whatever Peru had to offer and eager to get down there and start my journey.   My backpack is only about half full as I really dont need much, knowing that the majority of my time will be spent in flip flops and boardshoarts.  

   I started my trip in Lima, where I took 2 weeks of language school and settled into traveling and life in Peru.  Lima is the capital city and is a huge diverse area.  Spanish class went well allthough it wasnt easy but it gave me a good basis to practice with and keep learning.  I definitely enjoyed my two weeks in Lima but by the end I was ready to get out.  There was tons of traffic, smog, streets crawiling with people, and lots of nightlife.  My hostel was fun and easy to meet people, but getiing sleep on the other hand was not so easy.  
   After a twenty hour bus ride up the coast and then a short moto taxi ride I made it to Lobitos.  My new surfboard and I survived the travels and I was happy to take a rest in my new bed.  The following week I checked out all  the classes and helped as much as I could.  A little bit of english, swimming classes, surf classes, and a few others like conservation.  Pretty much all we do here at WAVES is teach and play with kids.  I like kids for the most part but sometimes it requires more patients than I have so I think I need to pace my self a little and put my energy into where I can be most usefull.  
I went for my first surf my second day in Lobitos and was stoked on the new board setup and the waves here.  As I was walking back to the house with the sun setting behind me I allready felt at home, and knew that I was really going to enjoy these next few months.  The best word to describe life in Lobitos is "tranquilo" wich means relaxed or mellow.  People here are on there own time schedule and meeting at 12 usually means 1230 or 1.  Everyone is freindly and the people here seem happy with their lives.  Most are pretty poor and live in little shacks but they seem to have what they need and they definitely live in a special place.  It is quite an interesting community and Im still figuring it out but I think what makes it so special is that no one really comes here besides surfers.  It has a unique history of wealthy british establishment around the oil bnusiness and then in the last century being taken over by the Peruvian military.  There are old ruins from the british as well as military strucures.  There is a big oil plant and pumps all around the town as well is oil ploatforms a few miles of shore.  The town of Lobitos is farely new and seems to be growing in a good direction. This month is the 60th anniversary of Lobitos so ther are lots of celebrations and events.   


   So far everything has been pretty easy and I really love it here.  I think Ive spent more waking hours in the ocean than not.  My bed is full of sand, my hands are dry and cracking, salt water is constantly draining from my nose, and I think Im allready a few shades darker.  La vida es buena. 
Chau, Riley​​